Відео

Purposely skipped the dpad three prong thingy. 🤦🏼‍♀️

I can't believe this passed me by! Thanks for the video

I think one flaw same with gameprint is to many sales to many discount codes and tho I like your videos to many give always they should of only offered limited number give always to each reviewer

Did you get the premium base?

The charging dock should only be used in one situation, that is if the mouse cable is not long enough to reach your mouse, otherwise it is just a waste of money and a ugly bulky cluttering object on the desk. If you are like me and on the computer for 12 to 16 hours day with minimal breaks not long enough to charge the mouse, just buy the powerplay charging mat, slide it under your preferred mousing mat and have continuous charging all day even when using the mouse. Yes it is cheaper then the mat, however not necessary since the cable comes free with the mouse and only makes us humans lazier not to take 5 seconds to plug in a charging cable.

Been using my Hycihka 2 drill set (drill & screwdriver) for 5+ years now and its superb. Great price, batteries last for ages. Did all shelving around the house and more. Including my Enterprise D display stand.

A four foot long Model is the Best Size of any ENTERPRISE model to build !!! 👌 😊😊😊

I had one of these. Yeah it was a pain in the ass to get it from regular D to triple nacelle D.

I really want one of these so bad. IF I get approved for SSI I'm going to get one. If you really want the most accurate Voyager kit to date. I'd recommend the 1/1000th kit that Round 2 put out. It seriously is one of the best ones out there and easy to put together. When I mean accurate, I do mean that. Although for whatever reason the formation lights on top part around the saucer on the outer areas are missing. Other than that it's a stunning kit. Oh another thing with the Round 2 Voyager model...I'd recommend adding a little bit of plastic on where the nacelles rest. Otherwise the nacelles will slag. You'll see what I mean if you get the kit.

Very cool. I played Split Second when it was on display at Longs Drugs back in the day. I fell in love especially with the game where you drive the car (line) around obstacles (other lines). I remember how excited I was to get one for Christmas (and I still pretty much only played the little car game on it). I don't know where it ended up, but bought another one a few years ago when I started collecting these old games (I have the other two in the vid and many others). I like the look of the box for SS in your vid. It's a bit more interesting than the U.S. one.

Hi Ralph! I recently bought this also, but sadly there was no instruction manual with mine. I wanted to ask if you could help me out?

I have the Constitution Refit one of these. Some of the panels went together very poorly with huge seam gaps. And wobbly nacelle. I should get around to glueing it at some point.

I have this kit and the Voyager kit. I got them when they first came out. I've always loved these and the paint job on them was very nicely done. I thought the lighting was pretty cleverly done for a kit at that time as well.

Scotty : Don't you worry, Captain. We'll beat those Klingon devils, even if I have to get out and push. Kirk : I hope it won't come to that, Mr. Scott.

better than getting phone knicked int street love it

I understand that ship

😊😊

Congrats on your Chinese pronunciation! Not many reviewers have been able to get it right so far.

what's the Orange Yellow light on brick even mean??The Brick bad or intetnal??Mi e shut off,Turn on twice after,When under loading Then kicked off,,Wonder if brick or inside??ALSO,,I can hear Fan in brick Click like gonna spin But Jus won't power up deck,,I still Get eject sound and Power button Ding

Whatever you do, DON'T buy the "HD" version of the ship. The red and green nav lights are wrong. The entire production run is this way. I told DST for YEARS about the mistake. They decided to ignore me and never fixed it.

I actually have the nx-01 and the 1701. Nice kits, awesome paint job on them, aztecing and everything. Been on the lookout for a voyager and enterprise e to complete my collection

I have the refit & the -E i could have gotten this one they had it at the comic shop I got the others from back in the day for $60(why I didn't I don't know😢) I wish Bandai would have made a few more of these before they lost the license to Star Trek

thanks for the video very imformative and helpful i ended up ordering this board from ebay today it had the original box all accessories and still had the plastic on it i needed a new board for my i5 11600k and this seamed like a good board i could harldy find any videos on it liked and subscribed keep up the great work

Thanks for the video, Ralph! It looks like you've got a nice little project there. Do you have the 1:1000 Voyager kit? I'd love to see how the sizes compare. I've made the 1:1000 Voyager, but I've augmented it, to give it 3 shuttle bays, put the impulse engines in a different place, and changed the pylons and nacelles (using some 3D printed "Voyager prototype nacelles, which are longer, and give it a better balance, visually). I'm calling it the Voyager-A

Nice video mate, funnily enough this morning bought the Revell kit off ebay for £30. The AMT Enterprise D commands stupid prices, got mine off eBay shrink-wrapped for £80,but some of the kits are selling for £150-£200! All the best pal

I've had one of these for years still sitting on my desk. I've really enjoyed it, but I have one criticism... the damn thing will power on and connect to my phone randomly. My garage sits under my room, and it will connect and take over my phone with no input from me. I'll be puttering around my garage with my phone connected to a Bluetooth I keep there, and suddenly the communicator in my room above powers on, connects to my phone and takes over all audio functions. Real annoying!

Yeeeah sure. LOL 👎

I have the first edition of these. I got it for Christmas in the early 70's. Still have them in the pouch. The button is ripped but otherwise in pristine condition with one exception. The first blueprint I took out a couple times and have William Shatners and James Doohan's autographs. I should have that one framed, but I don't want to break up the set.

Hi Great video Are these cases dust free please

Do you know that they cost around 220 in us Yeah I went to a yard sale and got it for 3 dollars I robbed them😂

Thanks for uploading this teardown! I just recently purchased and received both a Saturn Japanese Model 1 and a Saturn Saroo ODE and after using it for a few hours, I ended up finding out that the Saroo is somewhat incompatible with the Japanese Model 1 due to an apparent issue with improper shielding on the CD motherboard B7 gold finger pin, which causes terrible audio distortion and complete audio glitch outs in pretty much every game I tried. I used your video to guide me through the removal of the connectors and metal shielding, and then was able to locate CD motherboard which is the piece that you unclipped and popped out, which you mentioned you hope you hadn't just destroyed it. The B7 gold finger located on the underside of that board's connecter, is what I taped with a simple piece of scotch tape and lo and behold doing that solved the issue with the Saroo not working properly with this model of Sega Saturn. I found out that information from the Saroo's creators github troubleshooting site, and even though I thought it was a longshot, I thought it was worth a try and luckily it solved the problem.

this is so far the best tutorial I've seen regarding opening a 360 S. I'll buy a can compressed air and a t10 screwdiver in a few weeks so I can open and clean my console

I want one if it is available for sale.

I have just finished fitting those wedges. I am glad I watched your video first! I covered everything with masking tape to avoid what happened to you because it was an absolute nightmare trying to get those bloody wedges to fit. The top ones were easy but those small rear ones were so fiddly and frustrating. Took me two hours with lots of swearing and some broken nails but finally got them fitted. Whoever designed this was an imbecile and has no idea of how to design a model of this size and weight. I ended up using a blunt tool and forced them into place, it’s incredible just how much force was needed. Looking forward to the next issue to finally complete this build, it looks great as long as you don’t look too closely😁

Wioooow

Another great video thank you. After seeing you struggling to join the saucer section to the stardrive, I realised that the top phaser emitter on the battle bridge section would not slip in to the mating section on the saucer section. This is because unlike some of the smaller phaser emitters this one is not spring loaded. I used a bit of petroleum jelly to lubricate the phaser emitter on the star drive and it clicked in without any problems, who knew all you need it was a bit of lubrication. I didn't use any lubrication on the docking latches. I hope this helps anyone else trying to connect the two.

so in other words you left him bad feedback

I know you probably will but I’d love to see a video on re doing the regestries and names on the constitution class ship line up of the eaglemoss ones I plan to redo the registry on a fair few ships and I’d love to see someone doing it There is a bunch of them water slide decal sets on eBay I’ve been eyeing up it’s just I’m worried bout cocking it up lol

Well done, persevering with this! I bet you are glad that the end is in sight?

I built the Star Trek 5 version of this as a kid. I painted some parts before building and as a result the pylons would droop. I stuck some old bike spokes in them to help hold them but then installed the pylons on the wrong side. When I re sprayed the Primary Hull edge the paint over sprayed onto the base and gave it a look of stars. Happy Accident as Bob Ross would say.

There! Are ! Two! Ships!

Those wedges look a nightmare to fit, glad I watched your video first. Really it does sum up this build watching you struggle to fit the wedges and attach the saucer. Do you think it will be easy to remove the saucer or is it a really tight fit.

That model is a piece of junk not worth the time to mod.

I should have quit this build ages ago. If I had seen this video earlier, I would have! It's ridiculous having to spend that amount of effort to join those two sections of the ship.

Glad to see you finishing this up. I quit after stage 50. I just couldn't continue after seeing all the awful problems with this kit. I didn't feel justified that we should have to do so many corrections and modifications on a model that ends up costing over $2,000. I'm glad you finished but I'm really glad I quit.

I was gutted for you when the scratch happened but it won't be seen and I'm sure you can touch it up if it's bothering you. Have you any plans for the next project after this is completed?

I’d been planning to put some 2inch square clear acrylic ledges/mini floating shelves for the saucer to rest on at the front and sides will glue them in place with some very strong super glue,plastic screws if needed

Awesome. Want to sell it to me 😊

Totally not my fault, it was the chair I was sitting in that rolled over it! 😊